When purchasing a wood stove, it is important that you choose the appropriate size stove for your home. Most Wood Stoves will have a BTU rating which is the factor you will use to determine the proper size for your wood stove. The formula presented here is only a guideline as, unlike gas appliances that have a controlled Btu input, wood stoves are controlled by the user and the amount of fuel supplied to the stove or fireplace by the user.

BTU: Heat output is calculated in Btu's = British Thermal Unit. This is a measure of how much heat the stove or fireplace is capable of generating.

The size of the stove is dependent on the size of the area to be heated. To determine the space to be heated, multiply the width by length by height resulting in the cubic feet of area to be heated. If you are heating several rooms, then add them all together.

Next, take the lowest temperature you are likely to reach in a given winter. Then subtract that number from your target temperature. Let's say you expect 10 Deg/F to be the lowest outside temperature and you would like the room to be 70. That means on the most extreme days, you need a temperature rise of 60 Deg/F.

Next determine the cubic feet of the area you wish to heat. Take the length x width x height to determine cubic feet. Example: 10 x 20 room with 9 ft ceilings = 1800 cubic ft.

It takes 1 BTU to heat 55 cubic feet of air 1 degree under normal conditions. So in our example, we have 1800 cubic feet and want to raise the temperature 60 Deg. so the formula is 1800 c/ft div by 55 c/ft = 269 x 60 (temp rise) = 16140 Btu to heat the area.

That being said, there are other factors that have to be considered. First, is the area to be heated well constructed and insulated? If not, then add 10% (or more) to the total BTU required. If the area is extremely well constructed and insulated, deduct 10% (or more) from the total required.

The second issue in our example is we are heating the area based on the lowest temperatures of the season. However, with wood stoves and fireplaces, we are usually supplementing another heating system which can add heat power when needed in extreme weather conditions. Therefore, it is much better to use an average outside temperature factor - so we can de-rate our findings by 30%. In our example that would equate to 16140 less 30% = 11,298 Btu required to heat the room most of the winter days.

Purchasing the wood stove or fireplace for the area to be heated now becomes much easier given that you know the heat output you need. Some or most of your decision may rest on the appearance of the product so that it fits the décor you are dealing with. The important issue here is that if you do purchase a wood heating product with much more power than you need, you will have to compromise by not operating the stove or fireplace in the very mild weather. You must be able to operate your wood burning product at or near maximum temperatures to achieve maximum efficiency. Failure to do so on a regular basis will result in clogged chimneys and extreme build up of creosote in the stove or fireplace.

The staff at Copperfield Chimney Supply is very knowledgeable in all aspects of wood heating. We are always happy to provide whatever assistance you may need in determining the best wood burning product for your application.

Lighting a fireplace, wood stove, campfire or bonfire can be a daunting task. Take all the work out of this process with our Burner Fire Starters. Burner Fire Starters come conveniently packaged and easy to store barrels. Each barrel contains 100 packs, enough to easily start 100 fires. When they burn, the Fire Starters are complete odorless and have a long lasting flame. Packets have a large surface area which prevents them from being smothered with ashes. Packets will light even if they have been exposed to humidity or water.

Burner Fire Starters are safe and easy to use. They will not self ignite.

Fireplaces get old, it is a fact, and when they do, they need to be replaced. Tearing out all those bricks and fire shielding, then replacing it with new, is costly and time consuming, this is also a fact. Revamping your fireplace does not have to be, however, when you choose to update with a fireplace insert. Fireplace inserts are safe and easy to install and give your room back that warmth and beauty you had when your fireplace was in its prime. If you are looking for a fireplace insert, then look no further than www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com .

The summertime rite of passage essential to a good picnic, ‘throwing another shrimp, hotdog, hamburger, or salmon on the barbie,’ has passed. Cooler temperatures are creeping in and Alaskans need to ensure that their home heating equipment will operate safely not only ensures safety but also reduces heating costs.

Many homeowners forget about their heating systems until they use them for the first time each fall. Malfunctioning and misused heating equipment were the leading causes of home fires in Alaska for 2009 and 2010. Malfunctioning heating equipment is also a source of deadly carbon monoxide gas. Alaska State Fire Marshal David Tyler is urging Alaskan’s to have their heating systems inspected by certified professionals and repaired or replaced as needed.

Suggestions include heating equipment and chimneys cleaned and inspected by a qualified professional; Installing and maintaining carbon monoxide alarms to avoid risk of carbon monoxide poisoning; Combustibles kept at least 3 feet from heating equipment; Supervise children when a fireplace, fire pit, or other space heater is being used; Make sure all heating equipment has a label from a recognized testing laboratory; Do not use extension cords for portable electric space heaters; Use only approved fuel for each type of heater; Do not use cooking appliances to heat a home.

“Ensure your families safety,” Tyler said in a press release. “Having working smoke alarms, planning and practicing your fire escape plan and adding residential fire suppression sprinklers can ensure your families safety in case of a devastating home fire.”

THE NATURE OF CRACKS
With the heating and cooling of refractory on both masonry and factory-built fireplaces, you can expect some minor cracks to occur....it's just the nature of things. Small hairline cracks in the refractory will almost always be present after repeated firings. When these fine cracks occur, you can rest assured that the homeowner can enjoy the fireplace with absolutely no danger! In fact, there is metal behind the refractory on a factory-built fireplace; therefore, even if the cracks get larger, the fireplace will still operate safely.

WHEN TO REPLACE REFRACTORY
One should consider replacing the refractory when large cracks occur. If the crack is larger than 1/16 inch (thickness of a nickel) the refractory should be changed. Also, if the refractory starts to crumble and fall apart in chunks, you should replace it. Refractory replacement on a factory-built fireplace is a relatively simple task, which is usually executed by simply unscrewing a bracket, removing the original refractory and installing the new panel. Repairs are much more difficult on a masonry fireplace because experienced brick masons must use special materials to patch the cracks...and it's much more expensive.

PREVENTION
To prevent the problem from happening in the first place, the homeowner should "condition" the refractory in a new fireplace by building relatively small fires for the first few burns and then gradually working up to larger fires. When adding wood to the fire, one should use caution not to throw logs into the firebox, which may hit and damage the back refractory. In almost all cases, the back refractory shows the most signs of wear and tear because it takes the most abuse from heat and log impact. Very rarely do side refractory panels need to be replaced.

CONCLUSION
As stated previously in this paper, factory built fireplace refractory is a highly engineered product, which if treated with respect, will give the homeowner many years of problem free service. Small cracks are to be expected. If fine cracks appear, it's not a safety issue! Consider replacing the refractory when large cracks are present, pieces of refractory start to break off or if you wish to change refractory for aesthetic reasons.

Check your local building code to determine how far the hearth must extend in front of the firebox and the area on the sides and top of the opening that require noncombustible material. Expect 8 to 12 inches on the top and sides and a minimum of 18 inches for the hearth. When it comes to the hearth, the deeper, the better. There's nothing worse than a hot ember that burns a hole in the carpet. The remainder of the wall can be any material you want, from drywall to plaster to the rustic appearance of wood. More