Low Flame - too much primary air.

Close down the air shutter in small increments, replacing the window and letting fireplace operate for at least 10 minutes after each adjustment.

Also: Check that the the restrictor plate has been installed on vertically vented DV's. Check that flue baffle the restrictor has been installed on vertically vented cast iron stoves and DVR33.

Tall Orange Flame : not enough combustion air. Tall lazy flames that become dark yellow or orange in color, or flames that impinge on the top of the firebox will cause sooting. Both conditions are symptoms of lack of combustion air. Open up the primary air shutter(s).

Also: Check the venting. Ensure that natural and direct vents are installed properly as per the installation manual.

Check the log set up.

Check that flue baffle restrictor has not been used on sidewall cast stoves or DVR33.

Ghosting Flame : lack of combustion air. Wispy, transparent blue flames that lift off the burner and float through the firebox looking for oxygen. Fireplace will only run for a short time before it shuts itself down. Typically due to poor draft or flue gas recirculation. With NV's introduce make-up air, check for flue blockage. With DV's check venting, termination location, ensure all insulation has been removed when converting a rear to a top vent, and ensure there are no firebox leaks.

Noisy Flame : Excess primary air. Gas/ air mixture ignites close to orifice and sounds like a blowtorch. Also called flashback. Will cause soot deposits at the orifice/ primary air shutter. Clean and adjust the primary air shutter as per 'low flame' above.

Also: Reduce the amount of ceramic ember materials on the front of the radiant burner.

Trouble Shooting Main Burner Outage on a Gas Fireplace or Stove

1. Ensure that main burner goes out on its own and pilot light remains lit. If pilot goes out as well, refer to 'Pilot Flame Outage'.

2. Ensure all electrical connections are tight.

3. On RN/RP valves, jumper across TH and TP/TH terminals on the valve. If the burner lights off, jumper the terminals on the control switch. If the main burner lights off, replace the switch, if it doesn't, replace the wire with the proper gauge.

4. Remove the window and disconnect the thermopile from the TP and TP/TH terminals at the valve. Leaving the old thermopile in the pilot assembly, attach a new thermopile to the valve and hold the top 3/8" of the tip in pilot flame for 45 seconds. Turn on the control switch and if the burner lights off, correctly replace the thermopile.

5. Check open circuit and closed circuit readings on the thermopile to determine whether the problem is the thermopile or valve. Confirm proper operation of thermopile with short to ground test before proceeding.

6 Check the resistance of the valve main operator on RN/RP models. Ohms readings across the TH and TP terminals should be as follows:

Honeywell 3.1 to 3.6 ohms

SIT820 1.75 to 2.75 ohms

Valves with readings outside of these values should be replaced.

7. Check the resistance of the control circuit. Readings through the switch and wiring should not be above 1.7 ohms. If they are, take steps to lower the resistance (check wire gauge and replace with proper gauge, replace switch).

For Direct Vent fireplaces:

8. Remove the window and check the flame with the door off. If it burns properly, then you need to examine the venting for the problem. Check the termination to ensure the correct one is installed (TTDVRVT on rear vented fireplaces only). Check for obstructions at the termination (snow, vegetation, construction debris). Check for recirculation of flue products at the termination. Remove the termination and ensure that horizontal pipe is level using a small torpedo level. If the fireplace has a bay window, ensure the flat pane window has not been removed.

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If your fireplace firebrick is cracked or broken, you should replace the refractory brick before continuing the use the fireplace. Universal firebrick from Hargrove offers a simple and inexpensive method of replacing the fireplace firebrick.

How to easily repair the inside of your fireplace

Panels are 3/4" thick and can be easily cut to fit with a skill saw and masonry blade. The fireplace panels have large brick pattern and will adapt to almost any fireplace. You can order multiple panels to fit larger fireplaces. Firebrick panels can also be used on the hearth (bottom) of your fireplace. Panels are 24" wide and 28" high.

It is normal for a gas fireplace to give off some odor the first time it is burned. This is due to the curing of paint, adhesives and the burning off of oils necessary for the manufacturing process. It is recommended that the gas appliance be burned for at least 10 continuous hours on high flame setting the first time it is fired up. If the appliance is controlled by a thermostat, the thermostat should be by ? passed. If a fan is installed, place the fan in the off position during this time. Some gas appliances may require additional curing time depending on the venting configuration and model, so be sure to tell the homeowner this before you leave the installation.

On any odor call, first ensure the appliance has gone through a suitable curing period. This can be verified by removing the window frame and examining the gasket material. The paint and oils will burn off or cure in the first hour of use, while the gasket adhesive will take longer. The last areas of gasket adhesive to cure will be the two bottom corners, so pull back the gasket to check the adhesive. If it is still tacky, the appliance needs to be burnt for a longer period.

Other things to watch for are:

· Check the chimney draft on naturally vented fireplaces.

· Look for debris and dust in the air outlet passage on top of the firebox.

· Inspect the pressure relief doors and gaskets on direct vents to be sure they are properly seated and nothing is obstructing them.

· Check finishing materials on adjacent surfaces (mantel finishes, caulking) to ensure they can withstand the operating temperatures of the fireplace

· Check clearances to any combustibles

· Vacuum all air passages and then clean with a damp cloth to remove dust. etc.

Vent free appliances are often associated with odors, but are rarely the cause. Existing elements within the dwelling will change as they undergo the combustion process and are then exhausted back into the house. Because these odors are noticed once the vent free fireplace is installed, many people point at the fireplace as the culprit. For the original source of the odor look toward pets, cooking habits, cleaning products, 'new' man-made building materials (off-gasing from carpets, engineered wood products, finishes, dirt on the burner and logs, etc.) and even such obvious items as ash trays and sports gear. Refer to the Vent Free owner's manual for catalyst cleaning and maintenance.

1. Check if pilot flame goes out on its own or when main burner is on.

2. Check pilot flame for proper characteristics (should be blue and not wavering, lifting or blowing) and impingement on thermopile and thermocouple (top 3/8" in pilot flame).

3. Re-check pilot flame with main burner on and then all other gas appliances on to ensure properly sized gas line (check inlet pressure if possible).

4. Check to make sure pilot shield is on and pilot assembly is tight against the burner.

5. Ensure that area where pilot components pass thru burner tray on Direct Vent is sealed with gasket or silicone.

6. On SIT 820 (RN) valve, check that blue safety magnet wire is making good contact with thermocouple and insulator is in place, make sure thermocouple is tight in valve (hand tight plus % turn).

7. Check thermocouple for physical damage to make sure there are no overly sharp bends, burnt out tips.

8. Check thermocouple ? open circuit, closed circuit and drop out.

9. For fireplaces with a Vent Safety Switch (VSS): · Check vent diameter and height. · Check for signs and causes of negative pressure. · Check all electrical connections and make sure no wires or connectors are shorting. · On inserts, make sure that the enclosure for the fireplace is large enough and that air circulation slots on trim sides are present and not covered up.

10. For fireplaces with Mercury Flame Sensor: Check operation of sensor - normally open switch should close with heat (pilot flame) - should not make 'pinging' sound. Check thermopile output and ensure all connections are tight.

11. For fireplaces with Honeywell Comfort Control Systems: Check thermopile output - minimum 500 mVDC each - use highest output on front terminals. Check thermopile for shorting (put Leads on metal surface one at a time and check for grounding) - also move wires where they go into thermopile body while checking output.

12. For fireplaces with electronic ignition: Main Burner Outage Check ground wire for continuity - there must be a good ground Make sure flame covers flame sensor.

13. For fireplaces with an ODs, make sure pilot assembly is clean.

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It will be necessary to clean the glass window periodically. It is recommended that the window be cleaned at least 2 or 3 times per season with Gas Fireplace Glass Cleaner, following the manufacturer's instructions. This is a special window cleaner (there are many different manufacturers) that polishes the surface and leaves a protective coating behind.

Do not use any ammonia compounds to clean the glass as they will cause 'crazing' (small spider cracks) to appear in the glass. The need for more frequent cleaning will be caused by excessive silicone use or improper venting on direct vent fireplaces, and poor drafting on natural vent fireplaces..